Kd 8x7135 V2 Led Driver
KD V2 mA LED Driver with custom modes
We would like to hear from you. Join Date Sep Posts Bentryder, the legs on the chip are soldered together so I assume I don't get any other options with it configured that way.
Join Date Sep Posts Bentryder, just finished rigging my driver as discussed. As others have said, only the High and Medium modes on this driver are useful for biking. Bentryder, just finished rigging my driver as discussed.
Join Date Jul Posts Looks good to me also. Everything looked good until I put in the star for a test fit. Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky. The box did work out great.
Originally Posted by bobale. DigiKey is worse than Amazon. All are very budget cells. The edges can be sanded a bit if diameter is too wide.
In-Line Switch I assembled my in-line switch tonight. Not having a firefly mode was one of my biggest negatives about any of the other lights I own. Umm, which one is the diode? Originally Posted by marpilli.
Join Date Jan Posts what driver is that in the switch box? Perhaps someone out there might have an idea, iball baton adsl2 router usb driver for windows 10 how to rescue the driver.
Thermal tape should work too from the sounds of it. The image from the original post shows the spring clipped and bent.
Kd 8x7135 v2 led driver
But, if I were to build it again I'd have used the box that's slightly taller as it really was a very tight fit. Which leg would that be on this pic? Then you can just interrupt the power with a momentary switch to change modes This is the C board I am talking about Have to specify because another type of board got mixed into this thread. These chips don't produce a great amount of heat.
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You will loose the alarm feature and if you like the blinkie mode, it will blink on top of the constant output. Now, from these current measurements you can say something is off. The spring can be clipped and bent carefully. With the mods these guys have come up with, it looks as configurable as the more expensive boards. Funny you should mention that.
Would kill the need to do all the modifying we've all been doing to these to configure them to our liking. There's a good amount of mass to the cateye housing and it appears to dissipate heat fairly well. They fit perfectly in the light head so no further modification was necessary big plus on my list. Here's a couple pics of the light I took with me. That's the one I'm going to go for because the C board isn't available from Kaidomain any more.
Ofroad'bent, what inline switch are you using? The entire setup has a nice sturdy but light feel to it. How do we mount these things in the housings, so they have thermal contact? Cut the trace to chips and soldered to power source.
It's such a tight fit that I'd use the slightly deeper box if I were to rebuild it in the future. And can anybody explain the function of the switch bit? People have mentioned mounting them both ways. Create new account Request new password. Images are not to be taken as reference, they were shot on semi-automatic mode.
All in all very happy so far, a quick and cheap way of doing it. Ofroad'bent, does that switch turns the led on when you are pushing it down or only when you are releasing it up? So let me see if I have it all correct also. Finish this thing up in-line switch and go ride at night.
With chips on both sides, I'm inclined to agree with you. Originally Posted by OverTheHill. If it does, the twin will follow shortly.
The low is very, very low! If you use the strobe mode for being seen, You might give this some thought. Here's a comparison of the stock optic on high against the Regina on high.
What a pain to change modes, especially on the fly. It would be much better if it just went to the next mode. Drilled out the required holes in the project box. Is there a particular model of Regina you'd recommend for this housing? It's not too bad when mixed with the bar light.
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